February 8, 2010

Haitian Taste Sensation

Posted by annie happel under Haiti
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Last Friday night I sat with friends in the window booth at the Latin American Club. The rain was falling outside and collecting in tiny droplets on the windows, foggy from the warmth of stickysweetpulsing life inside. While we indulged in a couple rounds of the most potent margaritas this side of the border, I hatched my Haitian dinner idea.

Geographically, we’re far away from the island of Hispaniola. Port-au-Prince is 3,290ish miles from that cozy nook on 22nd Street and Valencia in San Francisco. I hoped we could feel closer and a bit more connected to the devastateddetermined country, at least with two of our five senses, if I whipped up some Haitian hotness in the kitchen.

Ellie played the role of my Haitian taste sensation advisor, emailing me her favorite Haitian recipes and enthusiastically answering all of my culinary questions.

“What is pikliz? Is it some sort of salad in a jar? How is it served?” It’s a “so damn delicious” spicy pickled cabbage hot sauce condiment. Haitians eat it with everything. “How do you say it? Is it peek-leez? Or pik-liz?” It’s the former. “Crap. Can I bake the chicken in the toaster oven because our big oven has gone cold and kaput?” Sure! Innovation is the key to Haitian cooking.

Okay, I was learning.

It was a simple meal – chicken, sos pwa (pureed black beans with coconut milk), cornmeal (simple boiled cornmeal seasoned with salt and pepper) and pikliz. I made the pikliz a few days ahead of time so the cabbage, carrots, onion and hot peppers got a good soak in their vinegar bath. The toaster oven chicken that I feared might take twice as long to cook turned out to bake in half the time the recipe called for.  It could have been a drycardboardairplanedinner disaster, but I happened to probe a breast (did I just write that?!) while flipping them over and discovered that the chicken was completely cooked. Done and done early!

I recommend quenching your thirst with a rum inspired cocktail to keep a Caribbean vein running throughout. Before dinner, Katie mixed rum, ginger beer and fresh lime for a round of mean Dark ‘n Stormies. Later, I used the same rum and a little brown sugar to caramelize bananas to go with our ice cream and cookies. Overall a satisfying meal, in both tummy and heart.

So, without further ado, here are the chicken, sos pwa and pikliz recipes for you. Go ahead. Get cookin’! Maybe this Haitian taste sensation will sweep the nation…

Haitian Chicken

Serves 4 – 6

6 chicken breasts (2 1/2 pounds of chicken)

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

2 1/2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1 tbsp. chili powder

2 tablespoons basil

Pinch of red pepper

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

* Arrange chicken in a shallow baking dish.

* Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl. Pour evenly over chicken.

* Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours.

* Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. *This is when, upon probing, I discovered to my great surprise that the breasts were cooked! Be sure to check your chicken.

* Turn and baste with the juices. Bake until tender, up to 30 more minutes.

* Serve with sos pwa, pikliz and rice or cornmeal.

Sos Pwa

Serves 6 as a side dish

1 pound of dried black beans, soaked

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1 can coconut milk

2 cubes of chicken bullion

salt and pepper to taste

* Boil a 1 pound bag of dried black beans for 1 1/2 hours or until tender

* Once the beans are soft, separate them from the water, but do not toss it. Place the beans into a food processor or a blender along with chicken bullion and garlic cloves. If the mixture seems too thick, add some of the cooking water to make it thinner.

* Heat beans on medium. Add the can of coconut milk while stirring. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Pikliz

Makes 2 quarts of salsa

1/2 head purple (because it’s pretty, green works too) cabbage, shredded in the food processor

2 carrots, peeled and shredded in the food processor

1 onion, thinly sliced

6 hot peppers, halved lengthwise with seeds (Check out the Scoville scale and proceed with caution! Scotch Bonnet, Habanero, Serrano or Jalapeno will work.)

6 whole garlic cloves, peeled

2 teaspoons salt

8 to 10 peppercorns

3 cups white vinegar

* Add all the ingredients except vinegar to a large bowl and toss well to mix. (Use caution handing the peppers! They will burnbabyburn.)

* Place all the vegetables into 2 clean quart-sized glass jars. Pour in enough vinegar to cover the vegetables, tamping them down to remove any air bubbles.

* Store the pikliz in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours before serving. It will keep in the refrigerator for a month or two.

 

February 1, 2010

Cardamom Coffee Concerto

Posted by annie happel under Breakfast
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There’s a coffee shop in San Francisco called Philz. Their motto is: “One Cup at a Time.” The coffee counter person individually brews your cup, adding cream and sugar if requested (I get a dash of cream, no sugar) and a sprig of fresh mint.  Nattie, my friend and coffee connoiseur, turned me on to their Philharmonic blend. Phil claims, “The Philharmonic’s delightfully orchestrated warm and balanced tones with harmonious layers of cardamom perform symphonies on the tongues of devoted coffee followers and the adventurous.” Wow Phil, that sounds mind-blowing! And, indeed, it is. It is a hotstrongboldnotbitter cup of joy.

I’m convinced that the secret weapon to this cup of goodness lies in the cardamom.  I’ve been a fan of adding a dash of ground cinnamon to my coffee for a while now, but cardamom is something new. It’s a subtleslightlyspicyfloral addition that elevates a basic cup of coffee to the ethereal.

I would go to Philz everyday if it weren’t for the cost issue. A cup of drip (granted, custom blended and served with a smile) costs at least three dollars. Far from a bargain. So, a few days ago I decided to invest in the necessary coffee supplies and brew my own Philharmonic. I’m tempted to call it my special Happelharmonic blend, but it doesn’t have quite the same ring to it.

Beans from Blue Bottle Coffee, the very best in the Bay. Half and half from Straus Family Creamery. Ground cardamom from the organic spice section at Whole Foods. And a pretty mug to savor my buzzybrew down to the last drop. It all came together so nicely. I’m not sure if it “performed a symphony on my tongue,” I guess I’d call it more of a “cardamom concerto.” Delicious, nonetheless.

Cardamom Coffee Concerto

Makes 1 mug of strong coffee

1/3 cup of your favorite coffee beans, freshly ground

1/2 – 1 teaspoon good quality ground cardamom

Splash of half and half

Sugar, to taste (optional)

Fresh mint sprig (optional)

  • Combine coffee grounds and cardamom and brew coffee however you prefer. I use the filter ($2.99 at Sur La Table) drip method.
  • Add a dash of half and half, sugar if you like it sweet, and mint.
  • Sip and enjoy!
 

January 26, 2010

Moroccan Winter Salad

Posted by annie happel under Salads
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I made this cinchy little salad last night on a whim. Chunks of avocado and grapefruit, dressed with mustardlemonlime and seasoned ever-so-lightly with cumin – easy on the eyes and super healthy with a unique, bold citrus bite. Yum. It was missing just one thing – a name. Something that pays homage to its slightly exotic taste. Hmmm. As I spooned the avocado grapefruit mixture onto a bed of arugula, I paused…Moroccan Winter Salad. Yes! I’ve never been to Morocco, but the name has an alluring, flavor enhancing ring to it. Don’t you think? I promptly took a photo and then inhaled my Moroccan Wintery goodness in less than two minutes.

To wash it down, I popped myself a colossal bowl of popcorn seasoned with copious amounts of salt and pepper and curled up to watch The Hurt Locker on my laptop. I had to remind myself to breathe at various times during the film – disarming bombs in Iraq is rather intense business. I loved the scene in the grocery store at the end of the film. Of course I did. Because I love grocery stores. But, also because I loved that the vast amount of cereal boxes symbolized the overwhelming number of choices we’re faced with everyday. So many choices. Not just in the aisles of our grocery stores, but everywhere. All the time. Maybe that’s why I find grocery shopping so comforting? I can make an educated choice based on ingredients, price and appearance. If I’m disappointed in my choice, I can take it back for a refund. Ohhh, if only life were that simple.

I fell asleep to the sound of the rain that just won’t quit. Evidently, the sun has gone missing this past week. I know I’m of Seattle roots and I shouldn’t let the gloom get me down. But alas, the gloom has got me down…pinned to the ground…in a headlock. Brutal. So, this afternoon, upon returning from my daily caffeinefixjobhuntingsession at Bernie’s, my friendly neighborhood coffee shop, I pulled the leftover salad from the fridge. I was feeling uninspired, cursing my dark mood and chalking it up to SAD – Seasonal Affective Disorder. It’s a real thing. I swear. I found a box of couscous in the cupboard, whipped up a small bowl with a dash of red pepper flakes for a little kick and added it to my salad for heartier meal. Turns out it was just what the doctor ordered. It cured my SAD right on up. And the elusive sun poked out from beneath the clouds just as I took my last bite.

Moroccan Winter Salad

Serves 2 as a first course

1 ripe avocado, peeled and cut into small chunks

1 grapefruit, peeled and cut into small chunks (If you want a sweeter salad, swap out the grapefruit and replace it with two oranges.)

Juice from half a lemon

Juice from half a lime

1 or 2 tablespoons mustard (I like Plochman’s or another brand of stone ground)

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Dash of ground cumin

Couple handfuls of arugula

  • Place the avocado and grapefruit chunks in a medium bowl.
  • Combine the fresh lemon and lime juice, mustard, salt, pepper and cumin in a cup or jar and gently toss with avocado and grapefruit.
  • Place a handful of arugula on a plate and top with avocado grapefruit mixture, spooning dressing over the fruit.
  • Add cooked couscous, farro or wheat berries for a toothsome, more filling, SAD obliterating meal. And, if you have ‘em, I think a handful of pomegranate seeds would be a lovely complement.

 

January 19, 2010

From Haiti, With Love

Posted by annie happel under Happelsauce
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I didn’t want to get out of bed this morning. I was sad. The world and my place in it – both seemed so heavy. There’s Haiti. I want to help and I feel useless. There’s my life. I feel unsettled and it’s wearing on me. I’m almost ashamed to admit that I still don’t have a job. So, today I did what I often times do when I’m having a bad day. I went to the grocery store…twice. Walking the aisles – piles of applesorangespotatoes, jars of jamsjellieschutneys, bars of milkdarkfruitynutty chocolate – is my therapy. I always feel better at the grocery store. Always.

I bought a bottle of Chardonnay, a can of garbanzo beans, a can of fire roasted tomatoes, fresh spinach, Gruyère cheese, a bar of dark chocolate and a honeycrisp apple. On my way to checkout I managed to stuff half of the espresso brownie samples from the bakery counter into my mouth, thereby dulling my hunger pangs. When I got home, I realized that it’s been exactly one week since my last Happelsauce entry. I have no intention of blowing my New Year’s resolution, at least not yet. So, I ditched dinner, opened the bottle of wine, poured myself and my roomie each a glass, and here I am.

I don’t have a recipe today. Instead, I want to share an email from my sister. Ellie wrote from Port au Prince early this morning, while I was still fast asleep. She had returned to New York from Haiti last Sunday, a couple of days before the earthquake hit. She had been there visiting friends whom she’d met in earlier years while working for SOIL and the Robert F. Kennedy Center for Justice and Human Rights. I swear that so much of life is about timing. And Ellie’s was good. Unfortunately, there’s never a good time for a massive earthquake. Particularly in the poorest country in the western hemisphere where as Ellie said pre-quake, “Nothing works and nothing is easy.”

Ellie had an incredible time visiting friends and exploring more of the country that has always had a hold on her heart. Her photos are beautiful and lend perspective to the devastation that took place last Tuesday. There’s one shot in particular that Ellie took of  a neighborhood in Port au Prince upon her arrival. The New York Times posted a similar shot on their homepage taken after the earthquake. It looks like all the homes were squished by a giant bulldozer. It’s entirely surreal.

Ellie returned to Haiti on Saturday, where she has been assisting in the relief efforts. I think I wrote in my senior yearbook that she was “my inspiration.” Almost twelve years later and that’s still the case. So, I figure the very least I can do is spread her message. I would hop on the next flight down there if I believed I could be of help, but I don’t speak Kreyol and I’m not medically trained, so I will be patient. Maybe in a month or so? I would love to do more.

Here’s Ellie’s email. Edited only a teenytiny bit.

January 19, 2010

I am well, but I am not SUPER useful.  I definitely think the best thing for people in the states to do is 1) Study Haiti–read The Uses of Haiti by Paul Farmer, read other books, learn about why relief is so hard here; 2) Organize folks in the US to give money; 3) Pressure companies/corporations who can help.  Gas is a HUGE problem. Hospitals and hundreds of US docs are no good without gas to transport patients.

Today was a crazy, inspiring day.  Tonight at the House a team of doctors from Colorado amputated a man’s leg.  Sasha, Beto and I buried it in the backyard.  We also brought a few new patients to the house–a woman with a fractured femur, another with a severe kidney infection.  I have only felt safe and hopeful around the people.  While the leg left this man’s body, out back a truck came with hundreds of bags of food.  We distributed it peacefully.  Sash and I talked about how when the people who distribute have guns (the UN, for example), people are more likely to riot.  I think that so much of the problem we see now reflects centuries of mistrust.  I think the only people who should come here should speak Kreyol.  For now.  There are plenty of capable Haitians who are ready to help.  Work gives a sense of purpose.

Incredible days.  Really sad.  I have not seen one dead body.  I have not seen one fight.  I have seen lots of people cleaning and cooking and cutting hair and striving for normalcy.

Earlier on today, the doctors saved a man who came in with a spurting aorta.  They do all the serious cases in the kitchen.  There is blood on the wall.  I eat soup and look around and feel incapable of taking it all in.

To reiterate – for now, just work state side!!  We will find things to do and maybe come down in a few months when things have organized/calmed.  People who don’t speak any Kreyol are not so useful.  We should all begin to practice!  I really don’t speak great but tonight I translated for two docs while they checked out new patients.  Humbling.

It’s 11:52pm. I’m posting this just in the nick of time. Goodnight friends. Goodnight Haiti. Goodnight world. Sweet dreams.


 

January 12, 2010

Wicker Park Pumpkin Risotto

Posted by annie happel under Risotto
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Happy New Decade, dearest Happelsauce readers!! It’s twelve days in and I’m finally getting around to writing. Jeeez. Sorry about that. Aside from Pom, I’m pretty sure none of you were holding your breath for my next posting but please accept my apology anyway.

How’s this? New Year’s Resolution #2: I will get Happelsaucey at least once a week. (New Year’s Resolution #1 is to not indulge in eating seconds, because I need to face the truth, food doesn’t taste nearly as good the second time around. I don’t need seconds. Might be my toughest resolution to date. Seriously. My love for food runs deep.)

Speaking of food and rules, Michael Pollan recently came out with a new book titled Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual. Last Friday, The New York Times’ Well blog posted an interview with Pollan about his new book. The last question posed was, “Did you learn anything new yourself from the rules?” Pollan addressed the psychology of food . “You can have intense food experience with less food. Europeans have intense food experiences but eat less food.” I like that quote. So true. It sums up my New Year’s Resolution #1 perfectly. And come to think of it, my most treasured food memories from 2009 come from my time spent in Spain and France. Because the food was freshsimpleclean and the flavors indelible - Spanish tapas (olives, jamon and queso), farm fresh chevre with bread and salad, avocado toast drizzled with olive oil and salt. Mmm. Mmm. Mmmmm.

So, seconds schmeconds! I’ll take good company around the dinner table any day over an extra helping of pasta. After all, good food brings people together. It’s a beautiful thing. On that note, I’d like to share a recipe with you. I first attempted risotto a few months ago on a chilly Halloween night in Chicago. So yes, it’s true that this recipe isn’t exactly new, but it’s really good. And ever since I conquered this pumpkin risotto a few months ago, I’ve been cooking a variety of risotto recipes ever since. I hope you will too.

It’s only fair to set the opening scene from my weekend in Chicago. Picture Wicker Park, Chicago in late October. Brownstones, mushy leaves, gray skies and torrential rain.  I was visiting my dear friends Rebekah and Katie. I had flown in the day before Halloween and taken the train from O’Hare into the city. I was wheeling my bag down the sidewalk, soaked to the bone, attempting to avoid puddles the size of kiddie pools. Rebekah met me a block from the train, soaked, and pushing her stroller with brand new baby Charlie bundled inside. It was a wet and wonderful welcome I won’t soon forget. It’s simultaneously remarkable and utterly mind-boggling to see my friends with their babies. My friends are having babies. And the babies look like miniature versions of my friends.  I guess they are miniature versions of my friends.

Anyway, I digress. I had read an Op-Ed article titled “Pumpkin Eaters” a few days before my visit and was charmed by Peter Mayle’s Pumpkin Risotto recipe at the bottom of the page. Actually, it’s less a recipe than an explanation of how to prepare the pumpkin. I was intrigued. Rebekah, Pat, Katie and I drank Dark ‘n Stormies while cutting the flesh of fresh sugar pumpkins into chunks, stirring the rice and holding Baby Charlie (soo chic and appropriately dressed in her pumpkin snuggly). The entire risotto experience which I feared might turn daunting and disasterly, was refreshingly breezy and enjoyable. As long as you’re diligent about stirring the rice and allowing time for the hot broth to soak in before adding another cup, risotto is pretty simple. It’s a hearty dish without being heavy and tastes creamy without containing a drop of cream. Risotto sticks to your ribs in the best way possible. It’s the perfect winter dish. Pair it with mixed greens or fennel and apple salad. I promise you’ll leave the table sat-is-fied.

Pumpkin Risotto

Serves 6

Basic Risotto

1 quart chicken broth

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

2 cups arborio rice

1 cup dry white wine

Salt and pepper to taste

3 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Plus Pumpkin

2 small fresh sugar pumpkins (Or try substituting butternut squash or another winter squash like hubbard, red kuri or kabocha.)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh marjoram

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

  • Preheat oven to 475 degrees.
  • For the pumpkin: After removing seeds and fiber, cut the flesh into chunks, leaving the skin still attached. With your hands, mix the chunks in a bowl with olive oil, salt and pepper, fresh marjoram and dried oregano. Lay the chunks on a baking tray, skin side down, and put them in the oven. When the chunks of pumpkin are soft and the edges are tinged with brown, remove from the oven and allow to cool, scrape the flesh from the skin and shred with a fork into a bowl.

  • Heat the broth in a pan and keep it warm.
  • In a separate pan heat the olive oil and butter, add the onions and garlic and cook very slowly for about 15 minutes without browning. When onions and garlic have softened, add the rice and turn up the heat.
  • The rice will now begin to lightly fry, so keep stirring it. After a minute it will look slightly translucent. Add the wine and keep stirring — it will smell goooood.

  • Once the wine has cooked into the rice, add your first ladle of hot broth and a good pinch of salt. Turn down the heat to a simmer so the rice doesn’t cook too quickly on the outside. Keep adding ladlefuls of broth, stirring and allowing each ladleful to be absorbed before adding the next. This will take around 15 minutes. Taste the rice to see if it’s cooked. Keep adding broth until the rice is soft but with a slight bite (al dente, if you will). Don’t forget to check the seasoning carefully. If you run out of broth before the rice is cooked, add some boiling water.
  • Remove from the heat and add the pumpkin, butter and Parmesan. Stir well. Place a lid on the pan and allow to sit for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with more Parmesan. Devour immediately.

 

December 24, 2009

I’m Dreaming of a White Christmas…Cookie

Posted by annie happel under Sweet Somethings
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It’s Christmas Eve. I’m with my family in a cozy log cabin in Mazama, Washington where the treetops glisten! Really, they do. We spent the day cross-country skiing in 18 degree sunshine.

Now Pom’s fixing dinner, Ellie’s reading the trial transcript for her Alabama death penalty case, Henny’s reading, and me? I’m Happelsaucing. Obviously.

Macaroons and Mexican Wedding Cookies. Together on a platter they are the very picture of Christmas. They look like snow. Elegant, edible morsels of snow. Please close your eyes and envision them now because I just realized that the photos I took are still in San Francisco. Dang. I promise to post them later. (Update! It’s January 26th and I’m making good on my promise. Photos, glorious photos!)



It turns out that Mexican Wedding Cookies and the Chocolate Dipped Coconut Macaroons have more in common than one might think: Both cookies resemble snow – in the form of a powdered sugar coating and shredded coconut respectively, both contain less than eight ingredients, both are easy to make, and both taste wonderful but in completely different ways. And I think it’s their differences that make them so delicious together. After all, isn’t that what the holiday spirit is all about?

The Mexican Wedding Cookies are nuttybutterybombs – they have a shortbread-like consistency, rich and subtly sweet .

On the flip side, the Macaroons are lightsweetchewymorsels – miniature coconut islands resting in pools of dark chocolate. (They require 4 egg whites, so they’re the perfect cookie to bake after whipping up a batch of Tiger’s Swedish Pancakes or another recipe that calls for egg yolks.)

Place one of each cookie on your holiday cocktail napkin and indulge. They’re worth every bite, down to the last crumb.

Chocolate Dipped Coconut Macaroons

From Room for Dessert, by David Lebovitz

Makes About 30 Cookies

4 large egg whites

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon honey

2 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut

1/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped (I like Guittard bittersweet chocolate chips)

  • In a large pan, mix together the egg whites, sugar, salt, honey, coconut and flour.
  • Stir constantly on medium-low heat, scraping the bottom as you stir.
  • When the mixture just begins to scorch at the bottom, remove from heat and stir in the vanilla.
  • Transfer to a bowl to cool to room temperature. (At this point, the mixture can be chilled for up to one week, or frozen for up to two months.)
  • When ready to bake, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  • Form the dough into 1½-inch mounds (sticky fingers!)  and evenly space on the baking sheet.
  • Bake for 18-20 minutes, until deep golden brown. Cool completely.

To dip the macaroons in chocolate:

  • Melt the chocolate in a clean, dry bowl set over a pan of simmering water (or in a microwave.)
  • Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap.
  • Dip the bottoms of each cookie in the chocolate and set the cookies on the baking sheet.
  • Leave untouched for a half hour or refrigerate 5-10 minutes, until the chocolate is set.

Mexican Wedding Cookies

From The Joy of Baking, By Stephanie Jaworski

Makes About 2 Dozen Cookies

2/3 cup toasted pecans (Walnuts or hazelnuts will work too, really it’s whatever nut you prefer.)

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature (Use the highest quality butter possible, I used Kerrygold. Plugra is also excellent.)

1/4 cup powdered sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

For Sugar Coating: 1 cup powdered sugar

  • Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
  • Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Set aside.
  • Toast Nuts: Place nuts on a baking sheet and bake for about 8 minutes, or until lightly brown and fragrant. Cool.
  • Once the nuts have cooled completely place them, along with 2 tablespoons of the flour from the recipe, into your food processor and process until they are finely ground (but not a paste). Set aside.
  • Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (about 2 minutes).
  • Beat in the vanilla extract.
  • Add the remaining flour and salt and beat until combined.
  • Stir in the nuts.
  • Cover and refrigerate the dough for about 1 hour or until firm.
  • Form the dough into 1 1/2 inch balls and place them on the prepared baking sheets.
  • Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the edges of the cookies start to brown.
  • Remove from oven and place on a wire rack to cool for about 5 minutes.
  • While the cookies are cooling, sprinkle about one cup of powdered sugar onto a tray lined with parchment paper.
  • Place the slightly cooled cookies on top of the sugar. Very gently (so the cookies don’t crumble) roll the cookies in the sugar to coat.

 

December 17, 2009

Cheese Souffle: Puffed and Proud

Posted by annie happel under Souffle
[2] Comments 

Julia Child. For me, the mere mention of her name invokes visions of…butter. Lots and lots of butter. After all, in her last magazine interview, Julia was asked, “Do you have a favorite ingredient?” She replied, “Yes. Butter.” Amen, Julia. Such a wise woman.

Back in October, Whit, Ellie and I decided to hold our very first “Julia Night.” We would cook from Mastering the Art of French Cooking and watch episodes of The French Chef, Julia’s cooking show produced and broadcast in Boston from 1963 – 1973. (Ellie owns the box set.) All three of us are Julia fans. Meaning, we were admirers before Julie and Julia hit the theaters. We all thoroughly enjoyed reading My Life in France. It’s a story based on love – love of cooking, love between husband and wife, love of France, and love of life. Of course, Julie Powell of “Julie and Julia” fame is to be commended for cooking every recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking – it takes a brave woman to dedicate an entire year of her life to expanding both her culinary knowledge and her waistline.

For our first “Julia Night”, the menu consisted of the following:

Cheese, olives and fruit.

Bouillabaisse from MTAOFC – a traditional fish soup from Marseille.

Chocolate Souffle from MTAOFC.

And lots of wine.

We finished grocery shopping around 8pm and didn’t eat dinner until after 11pm. After devouring our seafood soup and souffle, we selected another Julia episode and retired to the couch. I fell asleep before the opening credits finished rolling and didn’t wake up until 4:30am, shoes still on and smelling like a French fish monger. But it was entirely worth it. Our first Julia night had been a success!

On Monday, the three of us reunited for “Julia Night Part Deux,” this time at Ellie’s place. We were so inspired from the airypuffedgrandness of our chocolate souffle that we decided to adopt a souffle theme, whipping up one savory and one sweet – a Gruyere and Parmesan Cheese Souffle and a Grand Marnier Souffle with Creme Anglais. Plus a spinach salad with apple and almonds that provided a refreshing intermission between our souffle saga.

Here’s the thing. Souffles aren’t very difficult to make and the wow-factor is immense. A souffle hot from the oven – puffed and proud –  is a sight to behold. Both our savory and sweet souffles were delicious, but I’ve decided to post the savory recipe because it was truly the best in show. We poured the souffle batter into six ramekins and one large coffee mug. 25 minutes later, we opened the oven door to behold golden domes of goodness. Each spoonful was simultaneously rich and light. We decided that souffle is the perfect comfort food – a beautifulbutterybloated wonder. I can’t wait to bake more.

Gruyere and Parmesan Cheese Souffle

Adapted from Bon Appetit. Not MTAOFC. Sorry Julia.

Serves 4

Grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 stick butter

5 tablespoons all purpose flour

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of ground nutmeg

1 1/4 cups whole milk

1/4 cup dry white wine

6 large egg yolks

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons (packed) coarsely grated Gruyère cheese (about 6 ounces)

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

8 large egg whites

  • Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400°F.
  • Generously butter one 10-cup soufflé dish or six to eight ramekins, depending on size
  • Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese to coat. (If using 1 1/4-cup dishes, place all 6 on rimmed baking sheet.)
  • Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add flour, cayenne pepper and nutmeg. Cook without browning until mixture begins to bubble, whisking constantly, about 1 minute.
  • Gradually whisk in milk, then wine. Cook until smooth, thick and beginning to boil, whisking constantly, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
  • Mix yolks, salt and pepper in small bowl.
  • Add yolk mixture all at once to sauce and whisk quickly to blend.
  • Fold in 1 1/4 cups Gruyère cheese and 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese (cheeses do not need to melt).
  • Using electric mixer, beat whites in large bowl until stiff but not dry. Fold 1/4 of whites into lukewarm soufflé base to lighten. Fold in remaining whites.
  • Transfer soufflé mixture to prepared dish. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons Gruyère cheese.
  • Place soufflé in oven and reduce heat to 375°F.
  • Bake soufflé until puffed, golden and gently set in center, about 40 minutes for large soufflé (or 25 minutes for small soufflés).
  • Serve immediately (or risk serving a sad, limp souffle.)

 

December 13, 2009

Tiger’s Swedish Pancakes

Posted by annie happel under Breakfast
[7] Comments 

Full disclosure. I would like to tell you my Tiger Woods story. It’s timely and juicy and good, I promise. But here’s the hitch, it’s not entirely Happelsauce worthy. I mean, this is a food blog, not The Superficial. I figure that I need a good recipe to accompany my true Tiger tale, so recently my mind got to churning. What recipe could I possibly associate with Tiger Woods?

My brain played a far-reaching game of connect the dots. I was in the shower yesterday when I recalled one of my favorite bedtime stories when I was little. It was called Little Black Sambo. (Please note: At the time, I was unaware that it was such a controversial book. It was first published in 1899. According to Wiki, it may have contributed to the use of the word “Sambo” being used as a racial slur, for crying out loud!) But, in the book, Sambo is the protagonist and the Tigers are the greedy antagonists. See where I’m going here?

In case you haven’t read it, it’s the tale of a boy named Sambo who gets repeatedly threatened by hungry tigers and ends up giving them all the new, colorful clothes off of his back so they don’t eat him. Sambo cries, feeling utterly alone and defeated by the greedy tigers, when he hears a horrible “Grrrr” in the distance. He finds the tigers fighting each other over who’s the grandest tiger of all. They “caught hold of each other’s tails” and ran so fast around a tree, they became a blur and melted into butter. Sambo’s father stumbled upon the golden butter on his way home from work and brought it back to his wife that evening. She used the butter, “just as yellow and brown as little Tigers,” to make an enormous batch of pancakes for her family.

Dots connected! Pancakes and greedy tigers.

Good news is, one of my absolute favorite breakfasts of all time are pancakes…Swedish pancakes, at that. Oh yes. Pom would channel her inner-Swede and make them on the occasional Sunday morning, inevitably making my day. They’re thin and egg-y and taste like heaven. I’ll post the recipe below. Please make them! But, don’t head to the store to buy eggs and milk for the batter quite yet. I’ve rambled enough. It’s finally time for my true Tiger tale. Thanks for bearing with me.

Over 4th of July weekend in 2006, I met up with Lex, Allie and Katie in Las Vegas. It was my first time visiting as an adult. I’d been there once before with my family when we were on an epic canyon tour throughout the southwest. I think I was 12. I remember the endless breakfast buffet at The Mirage and not much else. On my first night in Vegas with friends, we ventured from our room at the MGM Grand and ended up at the Bellagio. It wasn’t until after dinner and a couple bottles of wine that I realized I’d left my ID in our room, on the other end of The Strip. Crap. I couldn’t get into a club without it. And it was our first night in Vegas! Dancing at a club was next on the agenda. I urged Lex and Allie to have fun without me while cursing myself for putting a damper on our escalating Vegas momentum. I suggested that I wait for Katie to arrive (her flight was delayed leaving Seattle). She would drop off her bags in our room, grab my ID and then the four of us could rendezvous. But, Lex and Allie, being  the most excellent of friends, insisted that we stick together. So we walked out the sliding glass doors of the Bellagio and parked ourselves on a faux marble bench to wait in the 102 degree heat. It was a little after 11pm.

A friendly hotel valet/bellhop wandered over and started chatting with us. We were the only people outside and we were losing steam. He eventually walked off to attend to an approaching car. A few minutes later, he hollered at us from the other side of the road, “Ladies! Ladies!” And motioned with his arms to come his way. We had no idea what he wanted. Again, I urged Lex and Allie to go and they insisted I come too. We headed in the valet’s direction. He was standing next to an unmarked door on the side of the casino. We approached and were greeted by a familiar face at the door…Tiger Woods.

“Hi, I’m Tiger.” We all made introductions and shook hands. Then we followed Tiger and his two friends up the dark stairway, through the back entrance and to the VIP booth at Light, the club at the Bellagio. Vodka and cranberry juice appeared on the table. Tiger lit a cigar. He wasn’t friendly, but he wasn’t rude either. He seemed relatively void of emotion and interest. Neither Lex, Allie or I said much to him. We learned from his childhood friends that they were in Vegas to celebrate a 30th birthday. I mixed a drink, exchanging wide-eyed glances of sheer amazement with Allie and Lex. Our first night in Vegas and we were hanging out with Tiger Woods in his VIP booth. Really? Another drink, more observations. I knew that Tiger was married, so why was he letting the cocktail waitress sit on his lap? I’m naive, I guess, but I didn’t expect it. Another drink, Tiger left the booth. Another drink, and I promised myself that if and when he returned, I would talk to him. Where had he gone, anyway? And where was the cocktail waitress? Katie had arrived at that point and was hanging out with us and Tiger’s friends. An hour or so later, I was feeling bold and bossy from the vodka coursing through my veins, and Tiger returned. It had to have been around 2am at that point. Tiger’s star power had worn off. He hadn’t smiled all night. Here was a guy who seemingly had everything in the world, and he seemed sad.

“Tiger, are you happy?” Yup, I said it. He asked me to repeat the question a few times. More than twice. And finally his answer was, “I have everything I want.” From afar, Tiger does seem to have everything – Fame, Fortune, Family. But happiness?  Maybe that’s the intangible element he’s never known to strive for. Maybe because he always thought it came bundled with the three F’s. Or, even worse, maybe he never considered happiness as something to strive for in the first place. I don’t know.

We were asked to leave the VIP booth shortly after I talked to Tiger. I don’t think it was a coincidence. Poolside the following day, I couldn’t help but wonder then what so many people are wondering now. Who is Tiger Woods? He seemed like a guy who’d never thought about much of anything besides golf. He’s had blinders on his entire life. He was raised to see the golf course and not much else. And he’s only human. He wants things. When he sees something he wants, something pretty predictable like a hot Vegas cocktail waitress, he gets it. He doesn’t question his motives because he doesn’t have to. Just yesterday, I read a sentence in The Open Road – The Global Journey of the 14th Dalai Lama by Pico Iyer that struck a chord and seemed ever so timely:

Happiness is a function not so much of our circumstances as of our perceptions.

I think Tiger should ponder that sentence and then he should set off on his road to happiness by making a big batch of “Tiger’s Swedish Pancakes” for Elin and the kids. How about that?

Tiger’s Swedish Pancakes

Serves 4 (unless one of you is me)

6 egg yolks

4 cups lowfat milk

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons melted butter

2 cups flour

  • Lightly beat the egg yolks in a large mixing bowl.
  • Add 2 cups of milk, sugar, salt , flour and whisk free of lumps.
  • Stir in the remaining 2 cups milk and melted butter. Batter will be very thin.

  • Pour about 2/3 cup batter onto a lightly buttered large skillet over medium-high heat.
  • Cook 3-4 minutes or until lightly browned.

  • Loosen pancake all around with a spatula and flip. (Rumor has it that it helps if you’re Swedish.) Remove from skillet and repeat until batter is gone.
  • Fold pancakes in half and keep warm in a 200 degree oven.
  • Serve with lingonberry jam, pure maple syrup, or a light dusting of granulated sugar and a touch of milk.

 

November 25, 2009

Good Morning Granola

Posted by annie happel under Breakfast
[3] Comments 

What is it about granola that makes it greater than the sum of its parts? Rolled oats + nuts + dried fruit + honey = a mouthful of magic. Really. I don’t think I’m exaggerating here. Granola is satisfaction. And, as it turns out, it’s a snap to make. I recommend you forego buying it from the grocery store, in the bulk bins or from the cereal aisle, and start making your own. I have three good reasons:

1.) Making homemade granola is easy and vastly more cost-effective. (Okay, that’s two reasons in one, right off the bat!)

2.) You control the ingredients. Don’t like raisins? Fine. Don’t use them. Prefer pistachios over almonds? Perfect. Swap ‘em in.

3.) Baking granola will make your kitchen smell delicious.

Now, I’m not claiming to be a granola guru, but I have experimented with more than a couple recipes over the past few months. I was initially drawn to those containing a variety of different spices – cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger. And,  I liked the idea of using applesauce in lieu of oil for a healthiercrunchier granola. But, it turned out that the medley of spices only jumbled my taste buds, and I almost lost a tooth from the applesauce crunch.

The good news is that I think I’ve finally found that the secret to great granola, and it is arguably (or so I’ve been told) also the secret to a great life. Keep it simple. Okay, shhhhh. Remember, it’s a secret.

The runaway recipe winner is adapted from Ina Garten’s Barefoot Contessa at Home. No spices, no applesauce, just pure granola goodness. Ina’s original recipe is for a Fruit Crunch Sundae with shredded coconut and slivered almonds. I’ve tinkered with it to suit my taste buds – omitting the coconut, adding dried cranberries and roasted flax seed, and subbing dry roasted pistachios for the almonds. Feel free to try different fruits and nuts to make your favorite flavor combination.

I love this granola with plain yogurt, sliced fruit, and a dash of cinnamon. Or, for the perfect blend of cereal shapes, I mix it with Heritage Flakes cereal,  Trader Joe’s Organic High Fiber O’s and rice milk. Or I just eat it with a spoon, straight off the cookie sheet while it’s still cooling because it tastes like oatmeal cookies. Maybe even better.

Good Morning Granola

Adapted from Barefoot Contessa at Home

Makes about 8 breakfast bowl fulls

3 cups quick-cooking (not instant) rolled oats

1 cup dry roasted pistachios (shelled)

1 cup sweetened cranberries

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

4-6 tablespoons good honey

pinch of salt

Sprinkling of roasted flax seed, to taste (I love the Golden Roasted Flax Seed from Trader Joe’s)

  • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  • Toss the oats, pistachios, cranberries, oil, and honey together in a large bowl until they are completely combined. Pour onto a sheet pan and bake, stirring occasionally with a spatula, until the mixture turns a nice, even golden brown, about 15-20 minutes. (Be sure not to over bake! The cranberries burn easily.)
  • Remove the granola from the oven and allow to cool, stirring once. Sprinkle with roasted flax seed and stir again.
  • Serve with yogurt or milk and seasonal fruit.
  • Store in an air-tight container – tupperware or large ziploc bag.
 

November 10, 2009

Fancy Fresh Fig and Caramelized Onion Pizza

Posted by annie happel under Pizza
[2] Comments 

Fresh Figs

Only recently have I discovered the wonder of the fig. True, I ate Fig Newtons when I was a kid, breaking off the cakey edges first and then popping the seedysweet middle in my mouth. A few years ago, I discovered fig spread. I would put a dollop of it in my greek yogurt with a dash of cinnamon for breakfast. But fresh figs eluded me until about a year ago. I think I’ve been trying to make up for it ever since, because I now eat them ALL the time. I equate summertime in California with an abundance of figs dangling from trees, begging to be plucked. I’m in denial that it’s officially fall and soon figs will be almost impossible to come by until early next summer.

Breakfast of Champions: Fresh figs, yogurt, cinnamon and honey

I’m taking this opportunity to encourage one last figtastic affair with a recipe adapted from The New York Times. It was originally published in the end of September – “Fig Tart With Caramelized Onions, Rosemary and Stilton.” It was accompanied by a mouth-watering photo. I saved the article with the intention of baking it soon, very soon.

A month passed by and I still hadn’t tried it. Then, on a wind-whipped and stormy Saturday night in late October, I met my friend Sarah (travel companion on the French Riviera, creator of this blog’s namesake, and cross-country pen pal extraordinaire) at her apartment in Brooklyn. Neither of us wanted to brave the torrential downpour going on outside, so we opted to get cozy with delivery and a movie. I opened Sarah’s three-ring binder full of local restaurant menus and in the front pocket, like some sort of sign from the fig fairy, was the very same fig tart recipe I’d saved. So, we had no choice but to head out for ingredients and wine and make the thing come alive!

We returned from our grocery gathering mission drenchedwithsquishysocks and with a few ingredient variations. Most significant of all, there was no puff pastry to be found in a two mile radius. I swear. So, we opted for whole-wheat pizza dough from Trader Joe’s. (A healthier option, certainly.) And, we swapped out the Stilton cheese for a log of chevre. Ohh, and a splash of red wine found its way into the milk and egg mixture. (In other words, Sarah’s first glass of wine went straight to her head. She got tipsy and proceeded to spill the contents of her second glass onto the counter, with a healthy dash landing in the mixing bowl.) We rolled with it. Nixed the sherry vinegar (it’s made from wine, after all) and opted for the unanticipated splash of red wine instead. I’m happy to report that all ingredient swaps worked beautifully.

Oozy figs and onions and pine nuts and chevre...oh my!

The caramelized onion base was a bit of a revelation for me. I’m convinced it’s the best foundation upon which to place other pizza toppings. The figs were wonderful, but you could do potato or tomato or sausage or peppers or all of the above. Just make sure you take the time to saute the onions until they’re soft and brown.

Caramelizing Onions

We ended up eating the ENTIRE pizza. And it was good to the very last bite.

Fig and Caramelized Onion Pizza

Adapted from The New York Times

Serves 2-4 as a main course. (I’m tempted to say it serves 2, period, to make myself feel like less of a piglet. It’s a pizza. You know how much you handle.)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 large white onions (1 1/2 pounds), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

1 sprig rosemary, more for garnish

Pinch sugar

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

1/4 cup milk

1 egg

Flour for dusting

Whole-wheat pizza dough (enough for one pie, we used Trader Joe’s)

1 pint fresh figs ( 3/4 pound), stemmed and cut in half lengthwise

1 log goat cheese, in small pieces

2 tablespoons pine nuts

Good-quality honey for drizzling, optional (We omitted, but would be a nice addition if you want a sweeter pie.)

  • In a large skillet over low heat, melt butter with oil. Add onions, rosemary and sugar. Cook, tossing occasionally, until onions are limp and golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, scraping any browned bits from bottom of pan.
  • In a small bowl, whisk together the milk and egg until smooth. Stir in the onions. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Apply a thin layer of oil to an 11 by 17-inch baking sheet and sprinkle with cornmeal. On a lightly floured surface, roll out pizza dough to a 9 by 12-inch rectangle. Transfer to baking sheet.
  • Use a fork to spread onion mixture evenly over dough (let excess egg mixture drip back into bowl), leaving a 1-inch border. Arrange figs, cut-side up, in even rows on onion mixture. Scatter cheese and pine nuts over figs. Gently fold over edges of pizza dough to form a lip and brush with egg mixture.
  • Bake until pizza is golden and figs are a little oozy, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve, sprinkled with rosemary needles and drizzled with honey, if desired.

Dinner Is Served

 

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